Day 28 -- October 25 => Deboche to Kyangsuma

Maybe it was the decrease in Diamox, but I probably set my fastest time of packing for the morning today. There was a big hill behind the campsite so we did not get the benefits of the warming sun while we were in camp. We left camp at 8 am and walked for about 10 minutes to reach the Deboche Monastery.

Nuns in the Deboche Monastery

We stayed for about 15 minutes, listening to the nuns chanting prayers.

Sarah in Thyanboche; Nuptse/Everest, Ama Dablam in background

After a stiff uphill slog, we arrived in Thangboche, aka Tengboche, (3867m/12,687') just before 10 am. We had hoped to catch part of the Mani-rimdu, a Buddhist festival held every October/November at the monastery. However, we had missed the first part of it by one day. Jagat arranged for us to enter the monastery and we were given permission to take pictures -- we left a donation.

Thyanboche Monastery

On the steps of Thyanboche Monastery

After an extended rest break, we left Thyanboche at 10:45 am. We arrived at our lunch spot in Phunki (3250m/10,660') an hour later after a rough and rather steep descent. After an excellent lunch of boiled potatoes, cole slaw, salami and chipatti, we relaxed in the warm sunshine for another hour.

We left Phunki around 1:20 pm, as the clouds starting rolling in and a chilling breeze kicked up. There was an immediate steady ascent and I jumped out in front of the group. I caught up to my porter for the first 10 days, Bat, who had been promoted to a kitchen assistant. We had an interesting conversation about his plans for the future, hoping to work his way up to becoming a cook or sirdar. He definitely has the drive and ambition to succeed, I wish him well.

About 20 minutes from camp, we started passing by people trying to sell trinkets, mostly cheap jewellry, at the side of the trail. We also passed someone trying to get trekkers to donate to trail building -- looked like a scam to me. Chris later told us at tea time that he has seen this donation box for many years and thinks most of the donations are just pocketed. They also like to add a zero to the amount in the donation book to encourage you to donate more.

We arrived at our campsite in Kyangsuma (~3800m/12,460') at 2:40 pm under mostly cloudy skies. Kyangsuma is just a few lodges with Thamserku (6608m/21,680') on your door step. Sarah and I helped Jagat and Lal setup some of the tents. By dinner at 6 pm, we were engulfed in fog. Modesto decided to partake of the local chang (rice wine) at the lodge after dinner and Chris was later called (11pm!) to drag him out of there! Modesto paid for his indulgence the next day on the trail.

Day 27 - Dingboche to Deboche Day 29 - Kyangsuma to Chumoa

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Created: March 2, 2003. Revised: March 30, 2003.