Day 12 -- October 9 => Surke to Phakding via Lukla

The original plan was for us to meet our fellow trekkers, flying in to Lukla, for lunch a couple of hours down the trail from Lukla. A shortcut trail just beyond Surke would bypass Lukla. However, Padam had asked us a few days earlier if we wanted to go with him to Lukla as he had to take care of some details there. We decided to go with Padam to Lukla; for me, I was curious to see some planes landing and taking off at Lukla airport. The kitchen staff would stick to the original plan. So, getting up earlier (5 am) than usual, we left Surke in a downpour around 6:30am. About 1/2 hour from Lukla, we stopped at a tea house for hot lemon. We arrived in Lukla (2866m/9403') at 8:30am, the rain almost stopped but still fairly heavy cloud cover. At this point, we were wondering if the trekkers flying in to Lukla were going to make it in this morning.

Map of Lukla; Himalaya Lodge (8) at top right

We went past the airport on the left side, with soldiers standing guard, up to Himalaya Lodge above the airport. While we were having breakfast, the trekkers who flew in to Lukla, arrived at the lodge: Joe Sr, Joe Jr., Mitch, Mark, Modesto, Ester, Catalino and Bonnie. Chris from CHE had also flown in to manage the trek logistics from here on.

We left Lukla around 10:30am, the rain had stopped and planes were landing and taking off. From Lukla we descended for a couple of hours before reaching an old wooden suspension bridge and Thado Koshi village for lunch at 12:45pm. By the time we left, the place was overflowing with tourists -- quite a change from our tranquil walk-in to Lukla.

After lunch, there was an immediate uphill to work off some of those recently added calories. A few minutes after topping out, a black & white dog became my guide all the way to the suspension bridge over the Dudh Khosi. I arrived at our campsite in Phakding (pronounced "fakding") at 2640m/8660' after 3pm.

Our dining tent still had not arrived by dinner so we ended up having our meal in a lodge. We had dahl bhaat (rice with lentils) and cauliflower in the main course. I had already tried "cauli" at least six times by now and definitely did not want anything further to do with it! Chris had sworn off cauli many treks ago. Cauliflower may pack well for treks but I wasn't convinced by its flavor.

I asked Padam if his tent was dry yet and that led to him mentioning the party in the kitchen the night before in Surke. He had woken up in the middle of the night with a small flood in his tent, his sleeping bag and thermarest soaked. He had tried to take Jagat's sleeping pad but Jagat wouldn't give it up. In retaliation, Jagat passed gas, driving Padam out of the tent!

Oops, somehow I missed taking pictures today.

Day 11 - Buspa to Surke Day 13 - Phakding to Namche Bazar

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Created: November 24, 2002. Revised: November 25, 2002.