Day 11 -- October 8 => Buspa to Surke

Leaving our campsite at the Sagarmatha lodge in Buspa at 7:30am, we ascended to Khari La (3081m/10,108') before descending to a suspension bridge over the Phuiyani Khola. We arrived in Phuiyan (Chutok) at 2796m/9173' around 11am for lunch. We were going to eat in a tea house but it was rather chilly in there so we moved to a wooden table outside where we could enjoy the sun's warmth. While we were eating lunch, an old man sat down at the table with us. He talked to us in Nepalese but we had difficulty understanding what he was saying. Kul, the kitchen sirdar, came by and gave the man a piece of rotti (bread) and some french fries ("alou" in Nepalese).

After lunch, a brief ascent to Chutok La (2945m/9662') before descending to our campsite in Surke (2339m/7674'). Our camp was right beside the Surkhe Khola, a tributary of the Dudh Khosi, so I washed my hair in the chilly water -- "brain freeze" every time I dumped a bottle of water on my head.

Fresh water buffalo for sale

During the day we had passed several spots where people were slaughtering water buffalo and yaks, in preparation for the upcoming Saturday market in Namche Bazar. We passed a lodge where one piece of water buffalo was being "aged", Nepalese style. Needless to say, my thirst for meat ("massoo" in Nepalese) at dinner that night was not as strong as it normally was. Kul must have picked up on that because we did not get any massoo for dinner.

Day 10 - Nuntala to Buspa Day 12 - Surke to Phakding

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Created: November 25, 2002.

©2002 Photographic images by Craig Knelsen. All rights reserved.