| Climbed: | July, 1997 (2nd attempt). |
| Elevation: | 2766 m = 9,072' |
| Elev. gain: | 1300 m = 4,264' |
| Ascent time: | 6.5 hours (very long approach) |
| Difficulty: | Easy scrambling via NE side. |
| Location: | Banff NP |
| Trail head: | 300m E of Castle Junction. |
| Topo map: | 82 O/5 Castle Mountain |
I made my first attempt of Castle Mountain in July 1995 but was forced back due to
rain and a late start. 1995 was a poor year for weather and after waiting several
days for better weather, I took a chance on a mostly cloudy day.
Fortunately I
had much better weather on my second attempt in July 1997. From the Castle Mountain
campground, I made my way to the Rockbound Lake trail and followed it for over two hours
(8.4km) passing Tower Lake and Eisenhower Tower along the way. As Rockbound lake comes
into view, the steep walls of the Castle Mountain massif provide a suitable name for
the lake. The summit is the high point to the far left in the photo. Technically, this
summit is not the true high point -- the true summit lies some 3 km NW but is
rarely visited.
I made my way to the right along the lake shore to reach a small runoff stream. From
there I ascended a gully east of the lake leading to a rock band. A beaten path
leads you through a break in the rockband. This section is really just strenuous
hiking with a few handholds needed through the break. In the photo to the right, this
ascent gully begins from the lake shore between the two stands of trees.
I made my way across the knoll following a faint foot path leading to a hump with a
visible trail making its way to the top. One can either use the trail to ascend
the hump or circle around to the left along the exposed foot. I attempted the
circle route but the exposure was just a little too unsettling for me (I definitely
would not recommend it in wet weather) so I regained the normal route to reach
the top of the hump.
At this point, you must make the decision to either tackle Helena Ridge (2862m/9387')
to your right and traverse the massif along the upper ridge or descend down the hill
to the grassy terrace. Helena Ridge was my goal on my first attempt in July 1995
but part way up, a long, heavy cold rain forced me back down. You will need to ascend
a talus slope angling towards the gully at the far right in the photo. From
there, slog up the scree slope and make your way to the backside to ascend through the rockbands.
Looking across the lake below, you can see Television Peak (2970m/9741'), the slopes
below which one must reach to tackle the summit to the left (not shown in photo).
My goal on the second attempt was the summit so I searched for a descent route to the
grassy terrace below. There are a few ways down to the grassy terrace, others no doubt
more challenging than others. The easiest way is not obvious on the descent so I
descended a more difficult section with frequent hand holds.
From here, hike along the grassy terrace until it almost peters out. About 15 minutes
of walking along this terrace I decided to take the high route closer to the walls (a
faint but discernible trail is evident) to reach the gully. In hindsight, keeping near
the grass may have been a better option. The high route involves more scrambling and
some boulder hopping. A tricky section around a small but steep drainage channel adds
some excitement. You will then reach a fair sized gully to scramble up to the upper
bench. You may want to make a mental note of land features to recognize this gully on return.
From there, a nice closeup of Stuart Knob ((2850m/9348') from the upper bench
provides another reason to stop for a rest break. You would need to circle around
to the left to reach the easy slopes to the top. I did not attempt it due to time constraints.
From the upper bench, find the best line to the summit over mainly hiking terrain. I
came across a reddish scree slope to reach terrain above this upper bench. Scratches
of trail and a bit of route finding will provide clues as to the best route to follow.
Essentially you will need to find a route far enough to the right of the steep walls
above Rockbound Lake, yet not too far that you run into cliff bands below Stuart Knob
on your right.
As you reach the final summit mass, a brief stint ot scrambling is needed to reach
the top. A summit register can be found in the cairn marking the top.
From the summit, you can see the top of Eisenhower Tower (2751m/9,026'), which is passed
on the opposite side on the way to Rockbound Lake. Castle Mountain was aptly named by
James Hector in 1858 given its suggestive appearance. However, almost a century later,
Castle Mountain was changed to Eisenhower to commemorate the post war visit of US president
Dwight Eisenhower. With public pressure though, the original name was restored in 1983 but
this isolated pinnacle was given the name of Eisenhower Tower.
Looking back across the massif from the summit, Stuart Knob (foreground) and Television
Peak (background) provide a backdrop for the upper bench ascended earlier.
Farther to the right is Helena Ridge, providing a better perpective of the gully one must
tackle to reach this higher point along the Castle Mountain massif.
Retrace your ascent route to Rockbound Lake and back to the trail head. I did
not have time to attempt Stuart Knob, TV peak or Helena Ridge. The descent from the summit
to Rockbound Lake took me just over 2 hours.
As you reach the knoll above Rockbound Lake, you get a view of Tower Lake and Eisenhower tower
passed earlier in the day. Just beyond Tower lake, you must ascend switchbacks up a steep
rock wall (the trees in the photo sit atop this wall) before reaching Rockbound Lake.
In all, with rest stops and lunch, the round trip time was just under 12 hours, a long day on the trail.
On July 27, 2000 I returned to Castle Mountain and summitted Helena Ridge (2862m/9387').
Back to my scrambles/hiking history.